Trogir, Split and Brač

One of the joys of travel is the prospect of waking up to a prepared breakfast. As this was a classy hotel, breakfast was sumptuous. My insides were feeling much better but I ate warily.

The plan was to sightsee around Trogir until mid-morning, then go to Split to catch the ferry to the island of Brač. Trogir's buildings are well preserved and very attractive in the sunlight.

We bought some cherries and strawberries from the market before taking the bus to Split. It took 45 minutes to get there. As Split is a medium-sized city, we had to transfer to another bus for the harbour. The first thing we did there was to ask the tourist office to find us a room for two nights hence. We wanted to be close to the bus station so that it would be easy for the niece to catch the airport shuttle and and me to catch the bus north on the day. They found us one in a private residence and gave us a voucher in return for payment. Then I found a bakery and we had some pastry with the fruits, sitting on a bench. The strawberries had started to go mouldy in the heat and many had to be thrown out. The cherries were excellent though.

The car and passenger ferry took an hour to cross the channel to the town of Supetar, on Brač, facing Split. (The niece jokingly called it Superstar.) Brač is the largest island in Dalmatia. At the ferry terminal we couldn't raise the Pansion Palute, getting only the whistle of a fax machine. We asked the tourist office for help and they managed to contact the landlady, who drove down to the harbour to pick us up. Her large friendly dog had come along too for the ride.

I had a siesta while the niece did some exploration on her own. She was hungry and so insisted that we dine no later than 7 pm down at the waterfront. While it was great of the landlady to pick us up because of our backpacks, the harbour is actually only a 20 minute stroll from the Pansion; Supetar is that cozy. We ended up at the Bistro Palute which was run by the landlady's brother. We ordered a mixed grill for two. The serving was too large even with both of us, so we surreptitiously gave bits to a friendly but goofy dog who was hanging around the tables.

A few doors away we got a couple of gelati. I was half expecting the gelateria to be Gelati Palute. Then we sat on a bench and chatted, enjoying the mild evening. A late ferry service came in as we watched. Supetar is a tranquil world far from the bustle of Split. Islands are great that way. I wondered if there were people who lived on Brač and commuted to Split for work. Nice home if you can get it.

Trogir

I suspect the prosciutto sandwich I had near Roški Slap. That far out in the sticks, the prosciutto might have been exposed for too long. I was feeling a bit warm after lunch but dismissed it as dehydration. On reflection that could have been the early symptoms of a gastro infection. As a result I visited the toilet several times in the night. At breakfast I tried to avoid heavy food without offending the landlady, who was encouraging me to eat. It was a delicate situation.

The bus station was a shambles. Even the locals weren't sure which platform was which. But it was all sorted out. Today's journey is retrograde, to the city of Trogir that I passed on the way to Šibenik. On the way some shopper's flagon of fortified wine broke on the floor of the bus, flooding the bus with the heady scent of fruit and alcohol. The driver had to pause at a bus stop to dispose of the broken glass. Poor lady, that might have been the family's cheer for the week.

The bus passed the holiday resort of Primošten, which is connected to the mainland by a causeway. This part of the Croatian coast is prime holiday home territory. Everywhere you look there are signs advertising sobe, zimmer and rooms in other languages. I was later told that on the coast visitors can outnumber locals 20 to 1 in high season.

Trogir is a world heritage listed city on an island off the coast, but only just. The channel is so narrow that you could mistake for a river.

I easily found the hotel that I had booked for the night. It was, as the map indicated, just outside the walled city. My niece would be arriving in the evening. I was pleased by the fact that Split airport is only 6 km from Trogir, closer than to Split. So I didn't have to backtrack all the way and face crowded buses like the one 2 days ago. Better still, the municipal bus linking the cities goes past the airport. Of course, at the early hour of 10 in the morning, the room wasn't ready so I deposited my backpack and moseyed over to the old city.

I didn't feel like a full lunch so I settled for a coffee and danish. Then I found the produce markets and browsed for a while, relishing the colour. Also fruit will be better for my stomach at the moment. I noted though that the strawberries in the supermarket came from Italy.

It was a warm afternoon so on return I was pleased by the airconditioning and spotless bathroom. I didn't want to sightsee too much; I wanted to leave something for when my niece would be here. So I surfed the satellite TV. Hundreds of channels of junk: shopping, religion, sport, ad nauseum. Even channels for Cuba, Turkey and Saudi Arabia. But I found a couple of good Deutsche Welle news bulletins and documentaries. I hardly miss current affairs while travelling. Usually when I get home and catch up, there may be one or two items per month that I consider of note. Travel gives you a different perspective, to better see what matters and what doesn't in life.

In evening, I caught a bus to Split airport and fetched the niece. The airport is small and laidback. Back in Trogir we had a late alfresco dinner in the cool evening air just outside the walled city, with a cute admirer watching us for handouts.