A native of the old town of Hvar, hurrying at daybreak down the hill next to my landlady's house, would have spotted on the leisure space outside one of the bedrooms, a slightly disheveled guest clad in shorts and T-shirt, with a jacket over the shirt on account of the somewhat chilly dawn, having breakfast. That was me, eating muesli and banana topped with yoghurt, washed down with cherry juice, obtained from the well-stocked Konzum supermarket near the centre of town. An early start to sightseeing? Not on your life. I went back to bed and got up about 0900.
On my way to the Jadrolinija ferry office, who should I spot but Diana and Laurie, sitting at a nearby cafe. They must have just arrived by the overnight boat at 0730. We exchanged stories over coffee.
When a small island town like Hvar boasts a Benetton and a Body Shop, which are absolutely essential if you are on holiday and running out of stylish clothes or unguents, then you know that you are in a trendy resort.
Hvar cultivates much lavender and sooner or later during your Croatian travels you will encounter street sellers trying to interest you in oils and soaps. A soap store down by the harbour has the catchy slogan: We may smell, but you need a bath.
I sauntered north along the edge of the bay, past a resort complex with a water slide, and busy construction workers adding more facilities. Looks like Hvar is pulling in mass tourism again.
But of course one must encourage the young tourists to be tidy.
Late in the afternoon, I found the road up to the fort that overlooks the harbour. There was an entrance fee of 15 kuna. There was a small exhibit of amphorae in the fort, but the real drawcard is the view overlooking the port. Hvar Town has one of the most picturesque ports that I have ever seen. In the middle distance you can see the Pakleni islands that shelter the harbour.
The evening has turned cold and I can hear the wind howling through the sails of the berthed boats. Despite that there are many international tourists from the boats or resorts at tables in the alleys but not in the exposed spaces. At Bistro Flor I had a good scampi risotto, then tried a tumbler of Croatian prosecco. Of course, after that, how could I forsake the gelati calling out to me from the ice-creamery. Ah, travel is such hard work, but someone has to do it.
On my way to the Jadrolinija ferry office, who should I spot but Diana and Laurie, sitting at a nearby cafe. They must have just arrived by the overnight boat at 0730. We exchanged stories over coffee.
Hvar cultivates much lavender and sooner or later during your Croatian travels you will encounter street sellers trying to interest you in oils and soaps. A soap store down by the harbour has the catchy slogan: We may smell, but you need a bath.
I sauntered north along the edge of the bay, past a resort complex with a water slide, and busy construction workers adding more facilities. Looks like Hvar is pulling in mass tourism again.
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